Boot or shoe upper



(No Model.)

, T. NALLY.

BOOT 0B SHOE UPPER.

$10,325,561. Patented Sept. 1, 1885.

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UNITED STATES ATENT Prion.

THOMAS NALLY, OF LYNN, MASSACHUSETTS.

BOOT OR SHOE UPPER.

EPECIPICATIGN forming part of Letters Patent No. 325,561, datedSeptember 1, 1885.

Application filed June 23,1585.

f0 all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, THOMAS NALLY, of Lynn, in the county of Essex andState of Massachusetts, have invented certain new and usefulImprovements in Boot or Shoe Uppers, of which the following is aspecification.

This invention relates to boots and shoes the uppers of which arecomposed of two quarters and a vamp, the vamp being stitched to theforward edges of the quarters; and it consists in a boot or shoe of thisclass the inside quarter of which is crimped or corrugated at that partof its edge which is drawn inwardly over the re-entrant curve at theinner side of the last, the corrugations being just back of the edgethat is stitched to the vamp, so that one of said corrugations serves asa gage to prevent the rear end or corner of the vamp from slipping toofar over upon the quarter during the process of stitching the vamp tothe quarter, the object of the improvement being both to prevent thevamp from overlapping the quarter too far and to give the inside quarterthe necessary fullness at its lower edge required to enable it to bedrawn into the inside curve of the last and over the bottom thereofduring the lasting process, as I will now proceed to describe.

Of the accompanying drawings, forming a part of thisspecification,Figure 1 represents a side view ofa boot-upper providedwith my improvement. Fig. 2 represents a bottom view of the same inposition on the last. Fig. 3 represents a section on line :0 a, Fig. 1.

The same letters of reference indicate the same parts in all thefigures.

In carrying out my invention I crimp or corrugate the lower edge of theinside quarter, a, making by preference two or more corrugations, b b,by suitably-formed crimpingjaws, the forward corrugation being at such adistance from the edge of the quarter that it is overlapped by the vamp0, so that it serves asa stop or gage which prevents the rear edge orcorner of the vamp from creeping too far onto the inside quarter during.the operation of stitching the two parts together. Unless considerablecare is exercised by the stitcher, the rear edge of the vamp is liableto thus creep over onto the quarter, and when this occurs the upper hasnot sufficient fullness at (No model.)

seam and double thickness caused by the union of the vamp and quarter;hence the operation of fitting the upper to the inner side of the lastis more easily performed than with the upper as ordinarily made withoutthe crimped inside quarter, and the upper is more perfectly fitted, thusgiving the boot or shoe a neater and more desirable appearance at itsinner side. WVhen the'ordinary quarter is used, the required fullness islocated partly in the vamp, so that the stiff sea-m resulting from theoverlapping and stitching together of the vamp and quarter has to bepulled inwardly in fitting the upper to the last, and the lastingoperation is therefore more difficult than when my improved quarter isemployed.

It will be understood that either quarter may be provided withcorrugations in the manner described. The corrugations are drawn overthe bottom of the last, and are covered by the outer sole of thecompleted boot.

My invention is mainly applicable to ladies and misses button or laceboots, but may be applied to other kinds of boots and to low-cut shoes.

I am aware that quarters have been cut and stitched to a vamp so that afullness resulted at the lower end of the scam in the upper formed, inorder that that portion of the upper could be turned down upon the lastwithout danger of splitting or unduly stretching the leather; but I amnot aware that before my invention a quarter was crimped or corrugated,as herein described, before stitching to the vamp for the purposes setforth.

I claim ICO A quarter for a boot or shoe upper providname to thisspecification, in the presence of ed with corrugations at that portionof its two subscribing witnesses, this 18th day of edge which is drawninwardly over the re- June, 1885. entrant curve at the under side of thelast,

5 as shown and described, for the purposes set Witnesses:

forth. JOSEPH F. I-IANNAN,

In testimony whereof I have signed my C. F. BROXVN,

THOMAS N ALLY.

